No chest strap in use.

Computer or chest strap batteries are low

Chest strap not on properly. Reference the User Guide for proper placement

Numerous differences exist between PowerTap and Garmin computers in regards to how data is displayed. To ensure the least difference, you should verify the wheel diameter is correctly entered into both devices and that both devices handle ride stops, pauses, and resumption the same way. Garmin computers typically measures distance (and speed, depending on setup options) based on GPS data, and does not use the auto-pause feature by default. PowerTap computers measure speed based on wheel speed and distance based on the number of wheel rotations and uses an auto-pause by default. Garmin calculates average power output without zeros, while PowerTap does not by default, but there is a setting to change this (on both Garmin and PowerTap computers). Garmin does offer a POD that allows the 705 to read speed and distance using a similar approach to the PowerTap. Garmin computers tend to apply more smoothing to the power data, which can cause discrepancies when compared to PowerTap computers.

You will need to go to set up number 5 in the instructions and “learn” the signal from the hub, HR strap or Speed/Cadence accessory (not included). You may download a PDF manual from our website. Go to the instruction manuals page to download the instruction manual for your model of PowerTap.

Numerous differences exist between the PowerTap and the Edge 705 in regards to how data is measured and displayed. To ensure the least difference, you should verify the wheel diameter is correctly entered into both devices and that both devices handle ride stops, pauses and resumption the same way. Garmin typically measures distance (and speed, depending on setup options) based on GPS data and does not use the auto-pause feature by default. The PowerTap measures speed based on wheel speed and distance, based on the number of wheel rotations and uses an auto-pause by default. Garmin calculates average power output without zero’s, while the PowerTap does not by default, but there is a setting to change this. Garmin does offer a POD that allows the 705 to read speed and distance using a similar approach to the PowerTap. The Garmin tends to apply more smoothing to the power data, which can cause discrepencies with the PowerTap in maximum power output values.

To prevent Garmin computers from detecting multiple power meters, it is best to pair the PowerTap and computer about 50 feet from any other active power meters.

The PowerTap Plus Series hubs now requires you to be stopped in order to execute a manual zero. For more information on this function, please review the User Guide that came with the PowerTap computer.

This is normal. The newest CPU firmware interprets the device IDs differently than previous version. We are now consistent with Garmin and other ANT+ devices. When the CPU is updated, all previously stored device IDs will be converted and there should be no need to “re-learn” the IDs. If you manually enter the old device ID into a new CPU, you will need to “re-learn” the device ID.

Download and install the latest version of PowerAgent from cycleops.com.

Updating your hub to ANT+ requires installation of the latest CPU firmware. Download the latest version of PowerAgent from cycleops.com and follow the instructions in the PowerAgent FAQs for updating device firmware.

1. Remove the battery cover from the sensor.
2. Remove the battery.
3. Inside, there is a small switch, Flip it to Cadence or Speed, depending on the desired functionality.
4. Re-insert the battery.
5. Replace the battery cover.
6. Pair the sensor to CPU

Wheel size is incorrect. Refer to the chart in the User Guide and enter the correct size in the setup menu on the CPU.

Torque is not zeroed. Zero the torque as described in the User Guide.

• Batteries need replacement.
• Computer not properly seated (wired models)—make sure the computer is firmly seated on the mount. Check wire for damage.
• Interference from other devices—see note about interference.
• Incorrectly mounted receiver (wired models)—make sure the receiver is mounted correctly. “Shark fin” shaped receivers work better when they are mounted closer to the hub.

This may occur for a variety of reasons.

• Hub is asleep – spin the wheel momentarily to wake up the hub and then “find” the hub
• Batteries need replacement – replace the hub batteries as shown in the User Guide
• Computer not seated in mount (wired models) – make sure computer is firmly and correctly mounted in handlebar mount. There is no marker that tells you the computer is clicked in. It simply needs to be pushed on all the way.
• Communications errors – verify that the receiver computer mount does not have a damaged wire or connector.
• Moisture in hub – remove cover to see if there is any condensation on the battery cover. If there is, leave cover off in a dry place for 12 hours or until moisture disappears. Be sure that when replacing battery cover you have all the necessary seals in place and that you lightly grease the battery cover for a better seal.
• Interference with other devices – make sure you are not setting up the PowerTap inside a building with a lot of electrical noise, neon signs, or near power lines. Bring the PowerTap outside or away from the electrical disturbance to see if signal returns. Also remove other speed sensors, computers and magnets.
• PowerTap computer batteries are low – replace batteries as shown in User Guide. We recommend using a cone wrench to remove the battery cap, not a coin.
• Heart rate mode –the computer may be in heart rate only mode. Check the User Guide to return the computer to normal power mode.

• One possibility is that the computer is asleep. Press one of the buttons on the computer to wake up the computer.
• Batteries need replacement—replace the battery as shown in the User Guide
• Another possibility is that the computer is too cold. Optimum operating temperature is 30-100 degrees Fahrenheit.
• Battery contact inside the computer may be depressed (Cervo). Remove the battery cover and battery to expose the silver battery contact. There should be sufficient spring in this tab. If there is not, GENTLY pull up on the contact to reform it.

The PowerTap computer has a setting that lets you change the data collection rate. When you set up the PowerTap computer (press MODE and SELECT buttons simultaneously until you get to the Setup menu) you can select data collection for every one second or every two seconds. If you select one second the PowerTap will record up to 15 hours of data. If you select two seconds you will record up to 30 hours of data.

• No chest strap in use – if you are not using the PowerTap chest strap, the receiver may pick up noise.
• No hub transmission – the transmission icon must be illuminated for the heart rate monitor functionality to be enabled. Spin the wheel momentarily to wake up the hub.
• Computer batteries low – replace the computer batteries as shown in the manual.
• Low battery in chest strap – replace chest strap batteries.
• Chest Strap not on properly – see the user manual for proper placement.

Typically, this will happen if the chest strap contact loses sufficient contact with the skin or if the battery in the PowerTap computer is low.

• Ensure the hub is awake. Spin the wheel to activate the sensor and then “find” the sensors.
• Replace the batteries in the hub.
• Your computer may be in bike computer mode. The word WATTS should be displayed under the top row on the display. If it’s not displayed, refer to the User Guide to return the computer to power mode.
• Re-pair the hub and computer.

• PowerTap cadence is accurate within 40 rpm and 130 rpm. Anything outside of this range will be recorded as a zero. Since the cadence measurement is a virtual cadence (based off of torque measurements) and not measured with an extra sensor it cannot read values outside of this range.
• If you’re using the cadence separate cadence sensor, make sure the sensor is paired to the computer.

Please see our warranty page for more information.

• Wind: The wind provides progressive resistance with a fan blade design. It is simple, inexpensive, with good road-feel, but noise levels increase quickly with your wheel speed.
• Magnetic: Uses magnetic resistance with three resistance levels. It is a perfect trainer for novice riders who simply want to log some miles over the winter.
• Magnetic Plus: Same unit as above, but with a handlebar-mounted remote control, which enables a wider selection of resistance levels at your fingertips.
• Magneto: The only magnetic trainer on the market with progressive resistance. Extraordinary road-feel, an elegant design, and a very quiet ride. Includes Cam Lever for easy adjustment of resistance unit. Resistance range is more than adequate for most enthusiast riders, but Sprinters, Clydesdales, and Mountain-Goats, please read on...
• Fluid 2: The Fluid trainer is the quietest trainer we made, and offers the widest range of progressive resistance. Spin along with virtually no resistance or hammer out a 2000-watt sprint. You will never outgrow this trainer. Includes Cam Lever for easy adjustment of resistance unit.

When you're riding your bicycle outside, wind resistance increases exponentially according to your speed. It's more than twice as difficult to ride at 20 mph than at 10 mph. The best stationary trainers offer built-in progressive resistance: pedaling faster or shifting the gears on your bike results in increasing resistance. With linear resistance, you lose this road-feel. Pedaling faster or shifting your gears has little effect, other than spinning your rear wheel faster.

A trainer is designed to work on strength and endurance training and typically provide more resistance than rollers. Riding rollers promotes good balance and a smooth pedal stroke. Many people incorporate both in their off-season training. So, it depends on your training goals as to which one is right for you.

You want to make sure the tire does not slip when accelerating or sprinting. It will depend on the tire size. A good rule of thumb for units with the resistance knob is 2.5 to 3 complete turns of the resistance unit knob once the roller hits the tire. For units with the Cam Lever, turn the Cam Lever enough so that when the Cam Lever is parallel to the ground, it is constantly just touching the rear wheel. Then push the Cam Lever to the locked position.

It is possible that the quick-release skewer of your bike's rear wheel may not fit well in the trainer's cones. Use the skewer provided with the trainer for the best fit. If your bike does not have a rear wheel skewer, but uses nuts, you may need to replace the nuts with "track nuts," which have a built-in flange and can improve the fit of the bike in the trainer. For replacing or changing axle nuts, please see your local bike shop.

Yes. You can purchase new resistance units if your original trainer was manufactured after 1999. Please call your local dealer or our customer service department for details. 1-800-783-7257.

CycleOps Power utilizes ANT+ technology to ensure a robust and reliable connection between the various sensors used in our products. However, there is a limit to the number of sensors that can operate in a given environment. Practically speaking, when riding by yourself or with others using less than 30 total ANT+ sensors, you should see no more than a 1% loss in data due to communication errors in your sensors. However, in an environment with more than 30 total ANT+ sensors you may see an increase in communication errors.

All sensors operating in a group enviromnent should be positioned at least 2 meters apart from each other to ensure minimal signal interference between devices.

Any off the shelf mini USB stick to standard USB stick cable will work. If you own a Blackberry® or digital camera you already have this download cable.

Make sure you have the latest version of PowerAgent. Click here to download the latest version.

Make sure the download cable is plugged into your computer and Joule.

Make sure Joule is turned on. To turn Joule on press Mode or Interval button. The Home button will also work on the Joule 3.0.

Make sure you have “stopped and saved” a ride. To stop and save; hold Mode button for 2 seconds until Ride Paused screen appears. Select “stop and save”.

Below is an example (from wattbike.com, we should maybe modify) of w/kg of male and female riders over a 60 minute endurance ride.

The rise/over run.

There are three different resistance type to select between target power, target slope and gearing. To change resistance types press the joystick in. It is recommended that when doing a manual ride (i.e. not a preprogrammed workout), to stay in either target power or target slope and not switch between resistance types. When riding within target slope, be sure to change the gear.

Make sure the 400 Pro indoor cycle is plugged in.

The 400 Pro indoor cycle will act as a progressive resistance trainer. The faster you pedal, the more difficult the resistance.

The 400 Pro indoor cycle uses a controlled resistance motor to help you target training (power or slope). Example if target watts is set to 100 and you speed up the resistance becomes much easier and if you slow down the resistance becomes much harder, because the motor is trying to keep you at that specific target power.

The yellow resistance knob doesn’t move manually to adjust resistance because the resistance is adjusted electronically by the resistance button on the Joule 3.0. The resistance button is controlling an electronic motor in the down tube of the indoor cycle. On the 400 Pro indoor cycle the resistance knob only acts as an emergency brake.

Power Zones are simply ranges of wattage that you determine based on your lactate threshold (LT) value. Often, they are percentages of your LT value. Power Zones are used to control your training and gauge how hard you train. Consult a coach for more information for Power Zone training.

Due to external factors of riding a bike outside versus riding a solid indoor cycle, you may experience different values on your PowerTap. Also, with the special design of the flywheel, inertia plays much bigger role in your workout on the CycleOps indoor cycle versus riding your bike on the road. For instance, a larger effort is required to get your indoor cycle flywheel up to a certain speed, but due to inertia, the flywheel will spin much longer than a regular bicycle wheel, resulting in less work being required to maintain that predesigned speed.

The CycleOps indoor cycles are a standalone unit. They cannot be wired to other third party virtual reality software.

First be sure to double-check all electrical connections are properly attached (hub batteries, cadence and/or speed sensor batteries).

CycleOps PowerTap utilizes the ANT+ technology to ensure a robust and reliable connection between the various sensors used in our products. However, there is a limit to the number of sensors that can operate in a given environment. Practically speaking, when riding by yourself or with others using less than 30 total ANT+ sensor, you should see no more than 1% loss in data due to communication errors in your sensors. However, in an environment with more than 30 total ANT+ sensors you may see an increase in communication errors.

On the previous home models the perception of our speed was a bit high. We changed the settings in later models to make the speed more accurately feel like that of a road ride. Cadence was calculated more accurately based on gear ration as well. Make sure you have the latest version of firmware.

Make sure you have a CycleOps indoor cycle model with a PowerTap. If there is not a PowerTap in the flywheel you will not have watts. Verify the correct power ID is learned into the display.

The display needs to be “woken up” in order to operate. To wake up the display, simply press any button on the display (note: pressing a joystick will not wake the display).

If you have the resistance knob turned all the way to full resistance, and you still feel like you need more resistance, you may check (on the previous home models) to see if your cables have stretched. If the cables have stretched, you are not utilizing the full range of resistance available. You may also adjust the tension using the quick adjust barrel located at the rear brakes. You may check (on the previous club and current Pro Series models) to see if the brake pad needs to be adjusted. Loose the bolts and adjust the brake pad accordingly. Reference the User Guide.

The previous club models have a proprietary CycleOps USB stick that allows users to have their specific information saved onto the USB stick (heart rate and zones). The current Pro Series models work with Joule 3.0 and need the Multi User Accessory kit and allow for any off the shelf USB stick.

No. At this time there is no upgrade option.

The height range is 4 feet 11 inches to 6 feet 6 inches. The height range is an approximate as inseam plays are large role in the fit of the indoor cycle. CycleOps offers two seat options. Contact Customer Service for options. The weight limit is 300 pounds.

The CycleOps indoor cycle flywheel weighs 48 pounds. The CycleOps indoor cycles were designed to make the unit ride and look like an actual outdoor bike. By moving the flywheel to the rear, we were able to more closely mimic not only the look of a real bike but also the feel. Finally, by locating the flywheel in the rear of the indoor cycle, we were able to keep it out of the “sweat zone” and thereby avoid contamination from sweat, leading to a longer life of the flywheel and resistance brake pad.

It is recommended that you wipe down the CycleOps indoor cycles down after each use. Do not us any harsh cleaners or chemicals. Avoid spraying any cleaners directly onto the CycleOps indoor cyles.

The CycleOps indoor cycles is 48 inches x 13 inches x 34 inches (length x width x height).The weight is 140 pounds.

Currently all CycleOps indoor cycle models come with a 170mm crank arm length and a Q factor of 168mm (outside to outside). At this time, the 170mm crank arms are the only lengths available.

Yes, the CycleOps indoor cycle was designed to allow you to place your preferred seat onto the unit.

The CycleOps indoor cycles come with a dual-sided pedal. One side is flat with a toe clip and strap, and the other side is SPD-compatible. Cleats are not included.

The previous club models and current Pro Series models come with pedals. However, the pedals can be removed and are compatible with any standard bike pedal. The CycleOps indoor cycle was designed to allow you to place your preferred pedals onto the unit.

o All indoor cycles ship with a CycleOps aero style handlebar. We offer a CycleOps specific road style handlebar accessory that is compatible with previous club models and current Pro Series models. The previous home models are not compatible with the CycleOps specific road style handlebar accessory, due to the resistance in the handlebar. To purchase the accessory contact Customer Service for part number 7595.

Occasionally, a rattling noise may come from the drive train of the indoor cycle. This is usually caused by incorrect chain tension. A chain that is too loose or too tight can cause noise. If you are unfamiliar with the adjustment protocol for bicycle drive trains, consult your local Authorized CycleOps Indoor Cycle Dealer to have your indoor cycle serviced.

The CycleOps indoor cycles have items on them that will need to be maintained, just like an outdoor bike, things like: the brake pads, cables, chain, etc need to be maintained. Over time, the chain will stretch and need to be tightened in order to maximize the life of the cog as well as the chain. The chain will also need to be lubed monthly with a spray-type Teflon-based lubricant. CycleOps sells appropriate lubricant. Contact Customer Service for placing an order for part number 18087. The brake pads will wear down over time and will need to be replaced. Your local Authorized CycleOps Indoor Cycle Dealer can make all repairs.

Be sure all leveling feet on the underside of the bike are touching the ground. If the locking nuts have not been tightened, the feet could inadvertently threat up into the stabilizer, resulting in a foot that is not touching the ground.

No. Each flywheel must go through a stringent quality control checklist before it is installed on all CycleOps indoor cycles. You might experience some wobble due to the design of the PowerTap equipped flywheels. They require that all the parts be threaded onto the axle. Sometimes, if a part is not threaded perfectly, you will witness a small amount of “runout”. More often than not, the flywheel may have shifted in shipping and just needs to be properly aligned in the dropouts. Contact your local Authorized CycleOps Indoor Cycle Dealer.

PowerAgent is the software that allows ride management by displaying metrics attained during your ride with a CycleOps computer or other compatible devices using a .csv or .tcx data file.

Navigate to the PowerAgent Software page on the website. The software is available for free download.

To update the driver:

1. Make sure your Indoor Cycle or PowerTap computer is plugged into a USB port, and the bike computer screen is reading ‘Host’ or ‘Connected to Host.’
2. Click on the Start Menu.
3. Right-click on My Computer.
4. Click on Manage. This will open a Computer Management window.
5. In the left panel, click Device Manager.
6. In the right panel, right-click on the USB or Serial device that is marked with a yellow question mark or exclamation point.
7. Click Update Driver.
8. A Hardware Update Wizard will open.
9. If the wizard first asks whether it can connect to windows update to locate the correct device driver, select "Yes, this time only," and move on to step 11.
10. If the option to connect to the windows update to locate the correct device driver is not available, you must manually download the drivers.
    • Once the drivers have been downloaded, return to the device manager following steps 1-8 above.
    • Select "Install from a list or specific location."
    • Click Next.
    • Select "Search for the best driver in these locations."
    • Check "Include this location in the search:"
    • Click Browse to navigate to the location on your computer where you saved the driver.
    • When the driver is selected, click OK.
11. Click Next. This will start the search and install.
12. When it is finished, you should have a screen that says the driver was successfully installed.
13. Click Finish to close.
14. Return to the Device Manager
15. Check to see that there is no question mark or exclamation point next to any USB serial device.
16. Expand Ports (COM and LPT) by clicking the + to the left.
17. In this list, you should see a USB serial port with a COM number next to it. This indicates that the correct driver is installed.
18. Your PowerAgent should now recognize and download from the computer.

PowerAgent 7.5 is compatible with Windows, Mac OS X 10.4 or higher, and Linux.

Return to the PowerAgent download page and download the USB drivers for your system.

If you have done this, try removing the PowerTap computer from the cradle and firmly replacing it onto the download cradle (you may hear an audible click indicating it is connected). If this does not work, try unplugging and reinserting USB into the USB port or try another USB port.

If using Joule, try removing the USB cable and plugging it in again.

Lastly, make sure the PowerTap computer says ‘HOST’ or ‘Connected to Host’ on the screen by pressing the mode button. If it does not say ‘HOST’ or ‘Connected to Host’ when you hit download, it will not download.

You need to download Java; our software is written in Java and will not properly function if you do not have Java version 1.6 or greater, this is available on our PowerAgent download page. For Mac users, use the software update under Apple.

1. Open PowerAgent and select the ride you'd like to email to your coach.
2. Go to File -> Export -> Activity Data
3. Save the ride as a .csv file. Give the ride a name you'll remember, and save it to a location you can find later.
4. Open your email client.
5. Attach the .csv file you just created to your email.
6. Send it to your coach.

You may need to update the firmware on your PowerTap computer. Within PowerAgent go to Tools -> Firmware -> Check for Firmware Update. Make sure you’re connected to the internet.

The download process will automatically move the data from past versions of PowerAgent 7.0 and newer to PowerAgent 7.5.

However, if you have PowerAgent 5.0, export all of your ride data. Ride data will save to the location ‘PowerAgent/Data/Export’. Alternatively, you may create a folder on your desktop, and copy your ride data folder there. Copy the contents of this folder to a safe location on your computer where you know where to find it. When you uninstall PowerAgent 5.0, this folder will be wiped out and you will lose all your ride history if you do not copy the contents of this folder and move it out of this directory.

Plug your PowerTap computer into your computer with the USB cradle or USB cable. Within PowerAgent go to Tools -> Firmware -> Check for Firmware Update. Make sure you’re connected to the internet.

The conversion from a ride to a workout relies on elevation data. You’ll need a Garmin or a Joule file to create a workout.

All your files are saved in My Documents/CycleOps for Windows and Documents/CycleOps for Mac/Linux. Transfer the CycleOps folder from one computer to another.

Back up these folders: My Documents/CycleOps for Windows and Documents/CycleOps for Mac/Linux.

The raw file is a collection of ride data has it happened. Once you import the ride file into PowerAgent or another software program the graphs will be recreated.

There could be a number of reasons. If you have tried a firmware update, PowerAgent update, and the PowerTap computer is fully seated in the cradle/plugged-in, call Customer Service.

Check smoothing and sampling factors within PowerAgent. Make sure you clear the PowerTap computer before riding. Also, ensure the correct user is selected within PowerAgent—the wrong zones and weight will skew the data.

Programming that runs the CycleOps computers.

Open the PowerAgent software on your computer. In the top menu, choose Help -> About. the About window that pops up will list the version of the software.

Make sure you have a user created. If you can’t see the user window, go to Windows -> Show User Window.

Micro SDHC cards are not supported, i.e., any card larger than 2 gig.

3 of the 4 joystick directions are currently disabled from turning on the Joule. We’re working on a future enhancement to disable the 4th direction.

You don’t. It just goes to sleep.

There may be a short ride that can bring down your averages. Find the offending history file and delete it through Window Explorer. Cycleops/history/file name.bin

How would this occur? A rider completes a hard ride and hits “stop and save” as they’re pulling into the driveway. As they’re rolling the bike into the garage a new ride is created 15 seconds long with an average of 0 power. This short ride then gets factored into the averages. Consider using the “stop and delete” function.

VAM – How quickly the rider is climbing a hill. The rate of ascent in meters/hour. This feature is most effectively used in interval mode. Start an interval at the bottom of a large climb. Stop the interval at the top. See how quickly you’re gaining elevation.

Normalized Power – An estimate of the power the rider could have maintained for the same physiological “cost” if the output power was constant.

IF – Comparison (ratio) of a ride’s normalized power to the rider’s threshold value.

TSS – Training stress score: an estimation of a ride’s total difficultly based on glycogen burned.

The information is stored in the history files after a “stop and save.”

Both the Joule and the Garmin use a barometric pressure sensor to determine elevation. The Garmin also uses GPS as part of the calculation to negate the effects of weather. Weather can affect barometric pressure and how the Joule computes elevation. Cloudy days are typically low pressure and will create an artificially high elevation. Bright sunny days are typically high pressure and will create an artificially low elevation.

You need to stop and save the ride before the history file is created.

Note that the “end ride time” can be set to 90, 60, 30, 15 min or “never.” Default is “never.”

The Garmin uses a different altitude value based on both barometric pressure and GPS while the Joule uses just barometric pressure. Additionally, the Garmin and Joule use different averaging routines to calculate feet gained and lost.

The temperature sensor is embedded in the packaging and takes some time (30 min) to equilibrate. Short rides or quick temperature spikes may not register with the Joule.

Additionally, there is some self heating from the electronics of when placed in direct sunlight.